After a spectacular drive from the Terai up into the foothills of Nepal, we have reached the tourist haven of Pokhara, from where we will trek around Annapurna.

From Amritsar we risked our lives on the Indian road network through the Punjab. Not since Azerbaijan have we seen such blatant disregard for a driver's own life, rendering the drive up to the British Hill Station of Shimla an Indian wacky race for the top, swerving only to avoid on-coming trucks and monkeys. In Shimla we treated ourselves to a nice hotel and large G&T's, enjoyed in the clear hill air.

Riding down to Delhi we re-entered the haze of India's northern plain but thanks to the hospitality of Major Saurabh Saharan of the 61st Cavalry, we enjoyed a week of polo and Delhi's nightlife. Diwali fell in the middle of our stay and the nights resounded continuously to exploding firecrackers.

Our drive to Nepal took us up to the Hill Station of Nainital, with incredible views up to Nanda Devi and the Himalaya and a lake complete with a British Yacht Club.

Crossing in to Western Nepal, the roads and countryside took a sudden change with empty highways running through an incredibly fertile, colourful landscape. Completely void of tourists, the western Terai led us to Royal Bardia National Park, where we spent three days tracking the allusive tiger. Despite coming face to horn with Rhino, both on foot and elephant, the tigers prints and claw marks continued to frustrate us and we left without a siting.